Written by Matilde Baiesi and Carolina Lawless. Revised by Eugenia Miu, Maria Righi and Matteo Minafra.
In 1999 the UN declared the 25th November the international day against violence on women to celebrate the anniversary of the Dominican Mirabal sisters’ sacrifice in 1960. On this day Liceo Minghetti organized a conference to discuss various aspects concerned to this issue. One of the groups focused on the evolution of the beauty standard for women from the 20th century on. In a world constantly evolving, female beauty standards have gone through a long journey, woven with societal changes and influenced by varying tastes.
From the Belle Époque’s etiquettes to the present age where clothing is a way to take a political position, the definition of beauty has been influenced by historical events, iconic fashion movements, even male taste has been playing an important role.
The Belle Époque age witnessed a monumental transformation in fashion, moving away from the rigid norms of the past. With the new clothing style, there was a shift towards garments designed to shape and enhance the female figure. This age saw a decline in the prevalence of corsets, and underwear production reached new heights. All of these factors led to a significant rebellion against traditional expectations.
With the Roaring 20s, fashion embraced dynamism, as clothes were often designed to conceal rather than to accentuate curves. This age introduced the concept of the “flapper”, a masculine woman, challenging traditional gender norms through a more androgynous style. Whereas the Thirties’ and Fourties’, fashion was influenced by economic factors , which brought to the production of more affordable clothing. Coco Chanel, a revolutionary figure in the fashion world, advocated for simplicity and functionality in women’s attire. This period witnessed the rise of cheaper clothes and furry coats, marking a detachment from more elaborate styles.
The Fifties celebrated the return of a more feminine silhouette with tight busts and large gowns. Polka dots dresses became iconic, capturing the essence of the moment. On the contrary, the Sixties stereotypical gender norms were shattered by the introduction of wide-legged trousers and vibrant, lively colors which became the symbols of liberation.
The Seventies continued the trend of wide-legged trousers, emphasizing comfort and breaking away from restrictive clothing. Moreover, fashion exploded with colorful ensembles and tight denim, reflecting an age of bold self-expression at the turn of the 80s. In the Nineties oversized, more sporty attire were embraced, including hoodies that blurred the lines between casual and fashionable.
Moving into the 2000s, layered clothes and low-rise bottoms took center stage, as no-carb diets gained popularity, shaping beauty standards through an emphasis on body size and shape. The new century brought to light concerning trends, such as pink washing and the pink tax. The first one involved marketing products with pink elements to exploit LGBTQ+ connections, while the pink fees highlighted economic disparities through taxation on gendered items.
In recent years, wearable activism has emerged as a powerful force, challenging conventional beauty standards. This movement encourages individuals to use fashion as a mean of expressing beliefs, advocating for a social change, and new societal norms.
The debate surrounding the objectivity of beauty remains rather complex. While some argue for universal standards, some other emphasize the subjective nature of beauty, suggesting that individuality and personal style play a vital role in defining the perception of beauty.
Nowadays social media play a role in shaping beauty standards as well. Some note the pressure individuals feel due to societal norms and subtle comments. The constant exposure to “fixed” images on social platforms contributes to the setting of unrealistic beauty ideals, fueling insecurities and narrowing standards.
When fashion and beauty standards start making people suffer, it’s important to consider why this happens. Who decides what’s pretty and what isn’t? What is this decision based on? Who takes advantage of it? By taking a step back and asking the right questions, maybe we can collectively break out of vicious cycles that fuel our insecurities, and start curating our appearances for ourselves, regardless of what others may think or wish to impose.
MINGOMagazine 